The first thing that needs to be said is shielding is the last option. That being said, we now live in a world that has been saturated in microwave energy so much, that there are few homes left that are radiation free even when all inside sources are turned off.
You may have wired up the router, use a wired phone, have all the transmitters in your house turned off or eliminated, and most likely you will find unacceptable radiation still streaming in to the home from a neighbor or cell anntennae somewhere. You will not know unless you have a meter. Everyone in this age needs one. Here is a good meter at an affordable price. The Accousticom2 has saved my bacon in many places.
You need to have eliminated all the wireless radiating devices and signals in the home first for shielding to be truly effective. You need to persuade all family members to wire up their devices or ditch the unwireable. It does no good to create a foil palace that merely ricochets all the energy about spewing out of radiating devices inside the home while shielding that same energy from coming into the home.
Shielding is to prevent other things from outside the home from coming in, or it's for protecting one person's room from the rest of the family who use wireless devices.
It's also for shielding high electric fields in the walls that can't be tampered with.
My very first attempt at shielding, back in 2016 was of the foil type. I posted a picture proudly on Facebook of my efforts only to recieve ridicule from people I thought were--in every other way--open minded. Basically, the sentiment was "Are you losing your mind?" Maybe if I had have posted this luxurious picture above, I would have gotten a different reaction.
The above picture isn't really a shielded bed, but it gives you an idea that shielding doesn't have to look tin foil hatty. There is a real canopy that will shield you from your neighbor's wireless security system or the local cell tower that is sold here at Safe Living Technologies, and it looks very similar to the picture above. Here is another company, YShield, that has a big line of canopies.
There is some difference between attenuations from 38-50 db and there is some difference in use. With Swiss Sheild, you need to already have a low EMF environment by turning off the circuit breaker to that bedroom. With the silver coated nylon ones, you have to ground the canopy and check for wear as the silver can flake off, especially if you wash it.
The Swiss Shield canopy goes for about $1,161.00. A bit on the pricey side. Like I said in previous posts, shielding is expensive. However, the first hour in an emergency room is even more expensive, as reminded by another Building Biologist who likes to keep the long term perspective in mind.
Because most of the newer 5g frequencies are in the lower to middle bands of what we know of as 4g, the game hasn't changed that much, and the good news is that most of these materials I will list are even bettter at blocking the higher millimeter bands of frequency.
One thing I need to mention here is that other than the shielded canopies, you are probably going to need the expertise of an EMRS certified Building Biologist. Much of the shielding materials need to be grounded properly, and a Building Biologist has the know how to estimate how effective a certain material is going to be against known power densities.
Before we get started, I need to define a word that is used when talking about the effectiveness of shielding material. The term is attenuation. It means weakening the signal. So, when purchasing or evaluating material, it's good to know how effective it is going to be. Attenuation is measured in decibels. It is a unit of measurement for understanding the effectiveness of a shielding material, it is abbreviated like this db.
Why do you need to know this? Well, let's say you live in an apartment, and an apartment on the other side's wifi is coming in at 100,000 microwatts per meter squared. If you have a material you found online that is 10 db. Ten db will give you 90 percent attenuation, but that 10 percent that is still coming in is still 10,000 micro watts which is way over the 10 microwatts that you want for your sleeping area. If you purchase a material that is 20db, then you get 99 percent attenuation. Now you are getting 1,000 micro watts still coming in. You won't be able to get safe levels at this power strength until you get a material that is 4db or 99.99 attenuated. Besides the attenuation factor, you have to figure out what frequencies are coming in and if the material is rated for those frequencies.
See why you might want to consult a Certified EMRS Building Biologist from the Building Biology Institute?
Even though there are many factors to consider, I will give you a few generalities and commonly used materials that you can use in a pinch. For more extensive projects, again, consult a Building Biologist.
Bed Canopies
The best option for sleeping areas is a Swiss Shield bed canopy from Safe Living Technologies. It is made with insulated non conductive fibers that trap the signal. Since they are coated, they do not need grounding. However, you need to install this in an already low EMF bedroom. It requires three 7-8 foot dowels for hanging from the ceiling. It has 4db (99.99%) at 1,000 MHz and 2 db (99%) up to 10 GHz. The electric circuits have to be turned off at night in the room it is in for it to be optimized.
Second best options are bed canopies that are not coated with natrual fibers but have sprayed on metals on the nylon threads. They have to be grounded because they are conductive becuase the metals are not coated. The reason they are not the best option for long term use is that the metals can flake off over time and lessen the protection you would otherwise be getting. Also, much of the material used to make the canopies come from countries that practice using toxic metals in consumer products. However, that being said, they are inexpensive canopies and can be used for short term such as traveling and temporary arrangements.
Radiant Barrier Foil
The great thing about foil is it's attenuation factor. At 1 Ghz it has 99.9999999999 percent attenuation. It' nearly imperviable, easy to work with, and easy to install. It must be grounded, however. You buy it at SLT here or buy it through a contractor who sells it. The big box stores carry it, but it smells and is not very durable. Overlap it and tape down with painters tape. You can staple it along the wall near the ceiling, overlap it and tape all the way down with painters tape, attach a copper wire to it and snake that outside to a stake in the ground that is moist. Dry soil is not very conductive.
To block smart meter signals, I would recommend two layers.
If you are in a pinch, grocery store kitchen rolls will work.
Aluminum Screen
Aluminum screen is great because it is economical. On average it's .29 a foot. It has to be aluminum to work. They sell window screen at the big box stores, but much of it is polyester. Won't work. Look for the rolls that are coated with aluminum like most old timey window screens. The part of your window that has the screen is already shielded for you, unless it's polyester. Check.
At the lower frequency levels it's rated at 100 percent attenuation from 1 KHz to 4MHz. The higher up the frequency goes, the less effective until it reaches 99 percent at 2.5 GHz. However, it is no good with up close, powerful frequencies. In other words, you can't wrap it around a powerful router and expect it to do anything. On the other hand, if you drape it down your windows on the outside or inside of your house, it will lower the power coming in significantly if the source is say 20 feet or more away.
I heard a story once of a man who when he found out his wife was electro sensitive, went out and bought rolls and rolls of aluminum screen and draped it down the sides of the whole house. Man, that's devotion.
Black YShield Paint
In Germany, they sell a paint called YShield. You can buy it in the states through Safe Living Technologies. It is industrial grade, and they use it to make sensitive military installations impenetrable to signals for security reasons. We can use it for similar reasons. It is problematic and is best used in conjunction with a EMRS Certivied Building Biologist. For one, it is very drippy, and you will get drips if using a brush. It will ruin whatever it drips on. If it lands on carpet, that part of the carpet is uncleanable and ruined. If it lands on concrete, same thing. If you have to stop painting at a door frame, there will be a crack between the door and the frame where you will have some, although minor, leakage of microwaves.
It is required to be grounded to the grounding system of the house, though, grounded outside works better for highly EHS folk. You will need to drill a hole thorugh a wall to the outside to get the wire to a stake in the ground.
It does have a high attenuation factor and is virtually impenetrable. Two coats are required. A third or fourth coat increases attenuation a bit.
Is it a DIY porject? Yes, it certainly is, but it will take a good amount of time and effort because after you have two coats of YSheild on, you have to paint over it with three coats of white or one or two of non white. You cannot paint over into the electrical outlet area or get any on the metal of the outlet or some of the voltage on the electrical system will be transfered to the paint. Same with the metal ductwork in the HVAC system at the vents.
YShield is very difficult, but it is so worth it once it is done. It can be purchased at Safe Living Technologies. If you buy it on Amazon, you may get an imitation that does not work. You would only know with a meter. In the case of YSheild, a reputable dealer is critical.
Low Attenuation Materials
Concrete has almost no attenuation. Drywall has none. Wood, no attenuation.
Cracks and Crevices
Imagine there is a powerful spotlight outside your room. Can you see it coming into the room through the cracks in the door? Use your imagination because it will help you find the weak spots in a room. Door jambs are essentially wide open for radiation to come in. You have to cover them also with paint or foil. Windows are wide open spaces. There are some films you can purchase, but they are very costly. You can also use aluminum window screen and drape it down the outside of the house over the windows.
Smart Meters
Smart meters prime calling card is their ability to wake people from deep sleep. I will write a separate blog about those, but in this one on shielding, I will mention that there are cages you can purchase that will dampen the signal if you are unable to swap them out for analog mechanicals ones--he ones with all the dials and the turning disk. Shielding from your neighbor's smart meters requires the same materials I mentioned above.
If you are EHS and not living in a remote area with no neighbors or cell antennae, you will need to shield. I hope this gives you some ideas on what you can do. Any situation can be made better. You will need to monitor your home conitnually, especially if you get new symptoms as we live in a changing and increasingly saturated microwave world.
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